Installation Instructions for Small Flying Amadinda

Table of instrument dimensions

The assembly and installation of the Flying Amadinda occurs in three phases.  The first is the assembly of the frame.  The second is installing the frame in the ground and letting the concrete cure. The third is mounting the bar assembly onto the frame.

The assembly of the frame can begin once the frame has been unpacked. The right side upright is composed of two 4 x 4 posts and is shipped assembled.  The posts that comprise the left upright of the frame are shipped unassembled.  These are two long posts and two short ones.  The long posts have one slant cut end and one square cut end.  The slant end is the top of the post.

The two short post sections are spacers for the long posts.  They are secured to the long posts with eight lag screws (included), and the intersections of the posts are marked #1 through #4.  Lay all the posts as shown in photo 1, with the intersections positioned so that numbers match.

Photo 2 shows four 5 1/2 inch long lag screws oriented on the frame in the direction they will be installed.  Photo 3 shows the four additional lag screws in the direction they will be installed.  Photo 4 shows the eight lag screws in the installation process.  You may choose to use wood glue or mastic on the joints between these posts but it is not necessary to do so.

Photo 5 shows the cross brace that connects the left side upright that you just assembled to the right side frame upright which is the doubled post.  It is important to orient the cross brace properly.  This is done by placing the face marked 'This Side To Bottom' so that it faces the square cut bottom ends of the frame uprights.  The A and B ends of the cross brace (photos 6 and 7) are mated to the correspondingly marked areas of the right and left uprights.  With the Bottom face of the cross brace properly oriented the two longest lag screws will fit properly in the pilot holes drilled into the ends of the cross brace.

Install the cross brace first onto the right side frame upright.  There is one 7 inch long lag screw used.   Photo 8 shows the lag screw being installed in this joint.  Note that the cross brace fits against the small blocks attached to the right and left uprights.  Again, use of glue on these joints is optional.  Photo 9 shows the attachment of the left frame upright to the cross brace.

The frame can now be stood upright as shown in photo 10.   This process requires two persons.  The ground where the instrument will be installed can now be marked for the three 36 inch deep holes needed by using the assembled frame to locate the holes.  If winter conditions in your area do not require 36 inch depth, the posts of the frame can be shortened to allow a shallower installation.

When the holes are made (a power auger can be useful for this, but post hole diggers will usually suffice--a ten inch minimum hole diameter is desirable) the instrument frame can be lowered into them and braced vertically.  The concrete can be poured into the holes and allowed to cure 24 hours before the bar assembly is added to the frame.

Photo 11 shows the eye bolts of the bar assembly being attached to the frame.  Washers and nylon insert nuts are supplied for the eyebolts. Photo 13 shows the orientation of the completed bar and frame assemblies.

Photo 12 shows the system for attaching the mallet cables to the instrument frame.

A 5/32nd or 3/16th inch drill bit is used for this and the addition of the screw after the cable end has been inserted into the hole keeps the cable securely attached to the frame.

We have not attached the cables in order to allow you to choose which position will work best for your intended users.  My personal preference is to attach the cable ends to the middle area of the cross brace as this gives the best playing action for the mallets across the length of the bar assembly.  However, this entails the mallets and cables lying on the ground when not being used, and creates a possible tripping hazard. I have never observed anyone tripping over the cables, but you should evaluate if this is likely to be a significant issue for your players. Another option for the cable attachments is to the right and left frame uprights.

The wood bars have been treated with Penofin and Anchor Seal prior to shipment.

The wood bars should be treated with a high quality exterior grade wood oil such as Penofin each year.  The ends of the bars have been protected with Anchor Seal (a paraffin sealer) to prevent the wood from splitting.  It is advisable to repeat this treatment on an annual basis also.