Installation Instructions for Large Flying Amadinda

Table of instrument dimensions

The assembly and installation of the Flying Amadinda occurs in four phases. The first is the digging of the holes into which the frame will be installed. The second is the assembly of the frame. The third phase is installing the frame in the ground and letting the concrete cure. And the final phase is mounting the bar assembly onto the frame. You will need to read and thoroughly understand these instructions prior to beginning the assembly and installation of this instrument. You may find it useful to install the other instruments prior to the Flying Amadinda. It is the more complicated process.

Three holes are needed for this instrument, all are 36 inches deep and at least 10 inches in diameter. A power auger can be useful for this, but post hole diggers will usually suffice. Two holes are needed for the left upright. Measure the distance that separates the posts of the left upright (see the descriptions of the left and right uprights below) and use this measurement to plot the hole placement on the installation site. The right upright will be at a right angle to these holes. The measurement of the cross brace will give the distance at which to plot the hole for the right upright. This hole will need to be a larger diameter than that for the holes made for the right upright as there are two posts which will need to fit into it.

The assembly of the frame can begin once the frame has been unpacked. The right side upright is composed of two 4 x 4 posts joined together to create an 8 x 4 unit. The left upright of the frame is comprised of two long 4 x 4 posts joined by two diagonal sections. This upright is also shipped assembled. These uprights will be joined to each other by the cross brace, which consists of a long post with two short diagonal brace posts at each end. The frame assembly consists primarily of connecting the cross brace to the right and left uprights.

The right upright is joined to the cross brace as shown in photo 1. The four end points of the cross brace assembly are marked 1a, 1b, 2a and 2b. The places on the uprights to which the cross brace is to be joined are correspondingly marked. Note that there are two lag screws used to join the cross brace to each upright. The top lag screw is smaller than the bottom lag screw. These lag screws will be found attached to the cushioning used to wrap the frame.

An identical lag screw system is employed to join the cross brace to the left upright. You can use a construction mastic to reinforce the joints effected by the lag screws, but it is not truly necessary. The function of the cross brace is to provide support to the uprights during the installation process. Once the uprights are installed in the ground and the concrete has cured the cross brace will largely have done its work.

As soon as the cross brace has been connected to both uprights the frame can be stood upright as shown in photo 2. This process requires at least two persons.

At this point the spreader bar, which is constructed with 2 x 4s can be installed between the uprights. The spreader bar is hammered onto the uprights near their tops, with a rubber mallet as shown in photo #3 . The spreader bar is essential for keeping the uprights properly separated during the curing of the concrete. Proper separation is essential for the bar assembly to hang upon the uprights properly.

You may find it best to assemble the frame near the holes into which it will be installed. The frame is quite heavy and awkward and moving it any great distance after assembly would require a number of persons, four or five at least. The frame should be moved carefully to avoid stress upon the joints. Stressing the joints could result in a slight misalignment of the frame uprights which will negatively affect the drape of the bars upon them.

Once the assembled frame has been lowered into the holes the concrete can be poured and allowed to cure a minimum of 24 hours (48 is preferable). Ensure the spreader bar is properly installed during this entire process.

Photo 4 shows the eye bolts of the bar assembly being attached to the frame. Washers and nuts are supplied for the eyebolts. Photo 5 shows the orientation of the completed bar and frame assemblies.

Photo 6 shows the system for attaching the mallet cables to the instrument frame.

A 5/32nd or 3/16th inch drill bit is used for this and the addition of the screw after the cable end has been inserted into the hole keeps the cable securely attached to the frame.

We have not attached the mallet cables in order to allow you to choose which position will work best for your intended users. My personal preference is to attach the cable ends to the middle area of the cross brace as this gives the best playing action for the mallets across the length of the bar assembly. However, this entails the mallets and cables lying on the ground when not being used, and creates a possible tripping hazard. I have never observed anyone tripping over the cables, but you should evaluate if this is likely to be a significant issue for your players. Another option for the cable attachments is to the right and left frame uprights. The wood bars have been treated with Penofin and Anchor Seal prior to shipment.

The wood bars should be treated with a high quality exterior grade wood oil such as Penofin each year. The ends of the bars have been protected with Anchor Seal (a paraffin sealer) to prevent the wood from splitting. It is advisable to repeat this treatment on a semi-annual basis also, or even every three months. Both products are available from large lumber yards. If you have difficulty locating Anchor Seal please call me and I will find a supplier for you. This maintenance procedure does not take much time and will add years of use and beauty to your instrument.